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FOOD
A sullied sweet?
Ubiquitous ingredient losing favor with some
Wednesday,  June 10, 2009 3:14 AM
THE COLUMBUS DISPATCH

What is it?

High-fructose corn syrup, a liquid sweetener, is derived from corn and used in various items because of its sweetness, low price and blending ability with other foods.

The most common form is known as HFCS-55, with 55 percent fructose and 45 percent glucose. (Sucrose, or table sugar, consists of 50 percent fructose and 50 percent glucose.)

Some scientific studies link the increase in the consumption of high-fructose corn syrup to obesity.

Yet other scientists blame many other factors, including an increased consumption of all sweeteners -- not just corn syrup.

Source: International Food Information Council

Where it's found

Here are some product categories that contain high-fructose corn syrup. (Not all brands have it, though: Check the ingredient list.)

• Breads, buns and rolls

• Cereals

• Cookies

• Frozen dinners

• Frozen pastries

• Fruit drinks

• Ketchup

• Jams, jellies and preserves

• Pancake syrup (other than pure maple syrup)

• Iced tea

• Salad dressings

• Soft drinks

• Yogurt

It is added to foods ranging from fruit drinks to ketchup, but high-fructose corn syrup is falling victim to changing attitudes.

The go-to sweetener for 30 years finds itself fighting for respect as its healthfulness is increasingly challenged and the price of sugar steadily declines.

One major soft-drink company has ditched the ingredient in limited-edition promotional products: Pepsi-Cola Throwback and Mountain Dew Throwback reached stores in late April for an eight-week run.

The "throwback" editions are being marketed as sugar-sweetened beverages reminiscent of those of the 1960s and '70s.

Along with nostalgia, the drinks offer what Columbus resident Ed Plunkett calls a clearer, crisper taste. Plunkett, 44, plans to stock up before the throwbacks depart at month's end -- although he hopes to see major soft-drink brands revert to sugar as a sweetener.

"It is wishful thinking," he said.

"You know, though, if you want to find sugared cola, you can find it out there. You just have to look for it."

 In 2008, U.S. sales of products without high-fructose corn syrup neared $900 million at food and drug stores, and mass merchandisers (excluding Wal-Mart) -- a 13 percent increase from 2007, according to Nielsen Label Trends data.

Part of the consumer purge of corn syrup reflects an attempt to reduce the number of sweets consumed, said Marti Andrews, head of the Ohio Dietetic Association.

At the same time, she said, the effort to cut sugar from the diet has made consumers more aware of the ingredients in their food.

The calories in high-fructose corn syrup and sugar are the same: about 4 in a gram.

Yet the number of products containing high-fructose corn syrup -- which gained favor because of its low price and use as a preservative -- is surprisingly high.

"It's in millions of things that you don't even think about," Andrews said. "That's what trips people up."

Giant Eagle has noted an increase in sales of products without corn syrup, company spokesman Mike Duffey said.

"Many of today's consumers have an interest in purchasing foods that are more natural, less processed and perceptually 'healthier' than their conventional counterparts," he said. "High-fructose corn syrup is one ingredient that a growing number of customers are looking to find alternatives for, opting instead for naturally sweetened products."

The Corn Refiners Association in Washington is countering the negative image with a TV ad campaign and a Web site (www.sweetsurprise. com).

Consumers often incorrectly think corn syrup causes obesity more than do other sugars or that it has more calories, said Audrae Erickson, president of the association.

"I think consumers are being misled to believe there's a difference between high-fructose corn syrup and sugar," Erickson said.

Food manufacturers are still making the switch, however.

Companies such as Ocean Spray boast "corn-syrup-free" on their labels.

Kraft has eliminated high- fructose corn syrup from some of its products, including Bull's-Eye Barbecue Sauce and Capri Sun juice drinks.

Velvet Ice Cream in Utica plans to switch from high-fructose corn syrup to sugar during the next 12 to 18 months, said Luconda Dager, vice president.

The company is creating test batches to match flavors and textures.

Some consumers have requested products free of high-fructose corn syrup, Dager said, but the real motivator has involved changes in the industry.

"In the food industry, you see a lot of 'real' -- real butter, real whipped cream," she said. "I don't think it's a trend. I think it's here to stay.

"Consumers want to know where the product comes from."



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