An Independence Day celebration without potato salad would be downright un-American. Yet the potato salad isn't an American creation -- nor does it need to stay true to the mayo-bound stereotype.

Potato salad made its way to the United States with British and French settlers, although neither used mayonnaise as the dressing. Historians aren't sure how mayonnaise became a part of the summertime staple, but potato-salad recipes made with the spread can be traced to as early as the 1800s.

History aside, keep two basics in mind when making potato salad:

• Use waxy potatoes such as redskins or Yukon Golds. They keep their shape better than starchy potatoes such as russets, which disintegrate into mush in a salad.

• Season the potatoes while they're still hot, using either some of the dressing or a sprinkle of vinegar. Potatoes can absorb more flavors when they're hot, making the salad more flavorful when it's served in its final version at room temperature.

When you think of potato salad for next week's fireworks, think about giving it a multicultural touch -- chipotle chili powder for a Mexican flair, for example, or a pesto punch as a nod to the Italians.

America is, after all, the great melting pot.

POTATO SALAD WITH TARRAGON VINAIGRETTE

Makes 8 servings

Tossing the salad with some of the vinaigrette while the potatoes are still warm guarantees that the salad will be full of flavor.

4 pounds fingerling or small redskin potatoes, halved or quartered if large

Salt

4 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1/3 cup finely chopped red onion

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh tarragon

¼ cup vegetable oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Cook potatoes in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender but not mushy. Drain well. Transfer to a large bowl.

Sprinkle potatoes with 2 tablespoons vinegar, tossing gently to coat. Set aside while making dressing.

Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar with sugar until it dissolves. Stir in onion, mustard and tarragon. Gradually whisk in oil.

Pour dressing over still-warm potatoes. Stir gently to coat. Cool to room temperature. (Potato salad can be made up to 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

PER SERVING: 230 calories; 4 g protein; 38 g carbohydrates; 4 g fiber; 7 g fat (1 g saturated);

0 cholesterol; 59 mg sodium

SWEET-POTATO SALAD WITH SPICY CHIPOTLE DRESSING

Makes 6 servings

Using chipotle chili powder, gives the dressing a smoky-spicy kick, the perfect counterpoint to the potatoes' sweetness. This salad goes great alongside all the traditional Fourth of July favorites: hot dogs, grilled sausages, burgers, ribs.

2 large sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

¼ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup sour cream

1 teaspoon chipotle chili powder (see Note)

½ teaspoon cinnamon

Salt and pepper

4 green onions, finely chopped (white and green parts)

Cook sweet potatoes in a large pot of water until tender, but not mushy, about 12 to 15 minutes. Drain. Transfer to a large bowl. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons lime juice. Cool 15 minutes, gently stirring occasionally.

Whisk mayonnaise, sour cream, chili powder, cinnamon and remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice in a small bowl. Pour over still warm potatoes. Stir gently to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Cool. (Can be made up to 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Adjust seasoning, if necessary. Sprinkle with green onions.

Note: Chipotle chili powder is available in the spice section of many supermarkets. If you can't find it, you can use regular chili powder, but the flavor won't be the same.

PER SERVING: 133 calories; 1 g protein; 11 g carbohydrates; 2 g fiber; 9 g fat (2 g saturated); 10 mg cholesterol; 85 mg sodium

ALL-AMERICAN POTATO SALAD

Makes 8 servings

While there are as many versions of potato salads as there are cooks, this is a great starting point. If desired, add chopped sweet or dill pickles and/or chopped hard-boiled eggs.

2 pounds small red-skin potatoes, halved if large

Salt

2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

1 small onion, grated

¾ cup mayonnaise

1/3 cup low-fat buttermilk

2 tablespoons prepared yellow mustard

1 teaspoon celery seeds

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Ground pepper to taste

Cook potatoes in a large pot of boiling salted water until just tender. Drain. Transfer to a large bowl. Add celery and onion.

Whisk mayonnaise, buttermilk, mustard, celery seeds and lemon juice in a small bowl. Pour half of dressing over hot potatoes. Stir to coat. Cool to room temperature.

Pour remaining dressing over potato salad. Season generously with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared to this point 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

PER SERVING: 245 calories; 3 g protein; 21 g carbohydrates; 3 g fiber; 17 g fat (2 g saturated); 8 mg cholesterol; 143 mg sodium

PESTO POTATO SALAD WITH GREEN BEANS

Makes 10 servings

Using purchased pesto sauce, available in the refrigerator section of most supermarkets, gives this salad an Italian twist. Adding green beans gives the dish a crunchy touch.

1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed

Salt

4 pounds small Yukon Gold or red skin potatoes, halved (or quartered if very large)

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 cup purchased pesto sauce

¼ cup chopped green onions

Cook green beans in a large pot of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about

4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer beans to a colander. Rinse under cold water to stop cooking process. Drain well.

Add potatoes to pot. Cook until just tender, about 12 minutes. Drain. Transfer to a large bowl. Sprinkle with vinegar. Cool.

Add green beans, pesto and green onions to potatoes. Toss gently to combine. Season with salt. Serve immediately.

PER SERVING: 264 calories; 8 g protein; 34 g carbohydrates; 5 g fiber; 12 g fat (3 g saturated); 8 mg cholesterol; 202 mg sodium

robin.davis@dispatch.com