Muffins have a choice (or, at least, their makers do): They can grow up to be the perfect hand-held, energy-packed breakfast or little more than sugary cakes.

Consider, for example, that a blueberry muffin from Dunkin' Donuts packs 470 calories, 17 grams of fat and 38 grams of sugar.

Even a Tim Hortons whole-grain raspberry muffin -- which sounds more healthful -- is a nutritional nightmare: 400 calories, 17 grams of fat and 26 grams of sugar.

Muffins, though, needn't be such a dietary liability.

Just about any recipe can be reformed into something far more healthful than the store-bought varieties. Better still, muffins are among the easiest foods to bake from scratch.

Some simple matters to note:

Remember portion distortion. Most purchased muffins are twice the size of the ones produced in a standard tin.

Think about the flour. Replacing half the all-purpose flour with whole-wheat flour adds fiber -- which makes people feel full longer -- and a bit more protein. A little wheat germ would only boost the benefit. (If the color of whole-wheat products is a turnoff, consider using white whole-wheat flour.)

Cut the fat. Most muffins are loaded with oil; some store-bought brands even contain trans fats. Try buttermilk in place of the cream or sour cream, or even some of the oil, in a recipe.

Reduce the sugar. Cut down the sugar in a recipe and keep the treats sweet by using applesauce, raisins or even grated apples or carrots.

Use a light hand. One of the biggest complaints about "healthful" muffins is their denseness. Instead of beating muffins, stir the wet and dry ingredients gently until just combined. Beaten muffins will be gluey and tough because of the formation of gluten.

To show that healthful can be delicious, too, we applied these techniques in creating three muffins -- each with less than 200 calories.

You can pair any of them with a piece of fruit and a glass of milk for a healthful breakfast that will leave you sailing through to lunchtime.

robin.davis@dispatch.com

 RECIPES FROM THE COVER

^{BETTER BANANA-BREAD MUFFINS}

Makes 12 to 16 muffins

This recipe, based on one from Real Food for Healthy Kids, gives sometimes fatty banana muffins a healthful makeover with whole-wheat flour and buttermilk. If you want to indulge a little, fold in 1/2 cup mini chocolate chips before portioning the batter into the tins.

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup wheat germ

2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

2 large eggs

3/4 cup packed brown sugar

4 very ripe bananas, mashed

1/3 cup buttermilk

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 cup chopped walnuts (optional)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line 16 muffin cups with paper or foil liners or coat with nonstick cooking spray.

Whisk both flours, wheat germ, baking powder, cinnamon, soda, salt and nutmeg in a large bowl.

Whisk eggs and sugar in another bowl until well-blended. Add the bananas, buttermilk, oil and vanilla. Stir just until blended. Stir in dry ingredients. Fold in nuts, if using.

Divide batter among prepared muffin tins. Bake until the muffins are puffed and golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Cool muffins in pan on rack 10 minutes. Turn muffins out onto rack. Eat warm or cool completely.

(The muffins can be made up to 3 days ahead. Wrap in foil. Reheat in a 350-degree oven if desired.)

PER MUFFIN: 144 calories; 4 g protein; 29 g carbohydrates; 2 g fiber; 2 g fat (0 saturated); 27 mg cholesterol; 191 mg sodium

^{CARROT CAKE MUFFINS}

Makes 12 to 16 muffins

The addition of shredded carrots packs these muffins with extra sweetness and beta carotene. This recipe is based on one from Muffins A to Z by Marie Simmons.

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup wheat germ

3/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups grated carrots (about 4 medium carrots)

1/2 cup raisins

1 can (8 ounces) crushed pineapple in juice, drained

2/3 cup buttermilk

1/3 cup vegetable oil

3 large eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line 16 muffin cups with paper or foil liners or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

Combine flours, wheat germ, sugar, soda, cinnamon and salt in a large bowl. Stir in the carrots and raisins.

In another bowl, combine pineapple, buttermilk, vegetable oil, eggs and vanilla and whisk until well-blended. Pour into dry ingredients. Stir gently just until combined.

Divide batter among prepared muffin tins. Bake until muffins are puffed and golden and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes.

Cool muffins in pan on rack 10 minutes. Turn muffins out onto racks and cool completely.

(The muffins can be made up to 3 days ahead. Wrap in foil. Reheat in a 350-degree oven if desired.)

PER MUFFIN: 184 calories; 4 g protein; 29 g carbohydrates; 2 g fiber; 6 g fat (1 g saturated); 40 mg cholesterol; 265 mg sodium

^{MORNING GLORY MUFFINS}

Makes 12 to 16 muffins

Zucchini and apples give the muffins extra moistness and nutrition. This recipe is based on one from Muffins A to Z by Marie Simmons.

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup wheat germ

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup sugar

1 cup coarsely shredded zucchini (about 2 small)

1 tart green apple, peeled, cored, grated

1 cup chopped walnuts

1 cup buttermilk

1/3 cup vegetable oil

1 large egg

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line 16 muffin tins

with paper or foil liners or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

Combine the flours, wheat germ, baking powder, cinnamon, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Stir to blend. Stir in the sugar, zucchini, apple and walnuts.

In another bowl, whisk buttermilk, vegetable oil and egg to blend. Add to dry ingredients. Stir just until moistened.

Divide batter among prepared muffin cups.

Bake until muffins are puffed and golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Cool muffins in pan on rack 10 minutes. Turn out onto racks and cool until warm or serve at room temperature.

(The muffins can be made up to 3 days ahead. Wrap in foil. Reheat in a 350-degree oven if desired.)

PER MUFFIN: 196 calories; 4 g protein; 24 g carbohydrates; 2 g fiber; 10 g fat (1 g saturated); 14 mg cholesterol; 226 mg sodium